I then turn to the analysis of vertical integration; I begin with the American Apparel case—or another
firm where vertical integration has been a primary feature of the firm’s strategy (e.g. Zara, Bird’s Eye,
Comcast).
If, as in textiles and clothing, the industry is vertically de-integrated (i.e. separate firms manufacture the
So, why is that our case study firm (whether American Apparel or Zara or some other business) has been
successful despite rejecting industry conventions? The key is to recognize the unique features of its
strategy and understand that, despite foregoing the efficiency advantages associated with outsourcing, it
has gained particular competitive advantage through a unique strategy that exploits advantages of close
coordination between multiple vertical stages. Thus in the case of American Apparel and Zara it is
extremely short cycle times between initial product design and delivery to retail stores which allows very
fast response to emerging fashion preferences.
Cases
American Apparel: Vertically Integrated in Downtown L.A. (R. M. Grant, Contemporary Strategy
Analysis: Text and Cases, 9th edn., Wiley, 2016).
In 2015 American Apparel is in crisis: its founder has been fired as CEO and the company has sought
Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. A key issue for the new CEO is whether to maintain American
Apparel’s vertical integration model or to follow the approach of almost all mass-market fashion clothing
Like American Apparel, Inditex (the parent company of Zara) has rejected the conventional wisdom of
the fashion clothing trade. At its base in the northwest of Spain it designs and manufacturers fashion
garments which it distributes direct to its own retail stores worldwide. While losing the cost benefits of
outsourcing production to manufacturers in developing countries, its tightly-integrated system allows
remarkable speed in responding to new fashion trends.