and a Japanese hiking club.
To get over the steep part of the climb before the sun melted the steps cut in the ice, we departed at 3.30 a.m. The
New Zealanders left first, followed by Stephen and myself, our porters and Sherpas, and then the Swiss. The
Japanese lingered in their camp. The sky was clear, and we were confident that no spring storm would erupt that day
to close the pass.
At 15,500 feet, it looked to me as if Stephen was shuffling and staggering a bit, which are symptoms of altitude
sickness. (The initial stage of altitude sickness brings a headache and nausea. As the condition worsens, a climber
may encounter difficult breathing, disorientation, aphasia, and paralysis.) I felt strong–my adrenaline was flowing–
but I was very concerned about my ultimate ability to get across. A couple of our porters were also suffering from
the height, and Pasang, our Sherpa sirdar (leader), was worried.
Just after daybreak, while we rested at 15,500 feet, one of the New Zealanders, who had gone ahead, came
staggering down toward us with a body slung across his shoulders. He dumped the almost naked, barefoot body of
an Indian holy man–a sadhu–at my feet. He had found the pilgrim lying on the ice, shivering and suffering from
hypothermia. I cradled the sadhu’s head and laid him out on the rocks. The New Zealander was angry. He wanted to
get across the pass before the bright sun melted the snow. He said, “Look, I’ve done what I can. You have porters
and Sherpa guides. You care for him. We’re going on!” He turned and went back up the mountain to join his friends.
I took a carotid pulse and found that the sadhu was still alive. We figured he had probably visited the holy shrines at
Muklinath and was on his way home. It was fruitless to question why he had chosen this desperately high route
instead of the safe, heavily traveled caravan route through the Kali Gandaki gorge. Or why he was shoeless and
almost naked, or how long he had been lying in the pass. The answers weren’t going to solve our problem.
Stephen and the four Swiss began stripping off their outer clothing and opening their packs. The sadhu was soon
clothed from head to foot. He was not able to walk, but he was very much alive. I looked down the mountain and
spotted the Japanese climbers, marching up with a horse.
Without a great deal of thought, I told Stephen and Pasang that I was concerned about withstanding the heights to
come and wanted to get over the pass. I took off after several of our porters who had gone ahead.
On the steep part of the ascent where, if the ice steps had given way, I would have slid down about 3,000 feet, I felt
vertigo. I stopped for a breather, allowing the Swiss to catch up with me. I inquired about the sadhu and Stephen.
They said that the sadhu was fine and that Stephen was just behind them. I set off again for the summit.