Slow growth rates were not the only reason for the dramatic change in the company’s
performance. More damaging was the rapid consolidation of U.S. retail stores. Many of the major
department and discount stores where Hilfiger items are sold have either closed or been purchased by
large department store chains. Today a few retailers, like Macy’s and Kohl’s, account for more than a
third of U.S. clothing sales, and those same retailers often sell their own private brands, too.
To avoid stalling out completely, Tommy Hilfiger needed to figure out how to expand
globally. The failure overseas of Tommy’s traditional U.S. look prompted the designer to adapt to
cultural differences in Europe and Asia. The biggest change was the decision to start creating designs
uniquely for the European consumer. Hilfiger opened a design center in Amsterdam, dedicated to
designing clothes and accessories for consumers from different European cultures. For example,
because Germans and Italians have different preferences for sweaters, Hilfiger has created a line of
sweaters for Germans clients, which is different from what it designs for Italian clients.
Those differences presented challenges; as managers soon discovered, the European market
differed greatly from the U.S. market. CEO Fred Gehring said, “The fragmentation of dealing with all
these little mom-and-pop stores is so alien to American businesses,” yet, “these stores are the
backbone of every major brand” that sells in Europe. Further, because there are so few locations for
new stores available (unlike in the U.S.), it makes more sense to work with existing retailers. To
handle the fragmented market, Hilfiger opened 21 regional showrooms, featuring 25 clothing lines,
each with several tailored to particular markets. Even though that led to higher operating costs,
operating in that manner enabled the company to achieve much higher profit levels and to place its
products in 4,500 boutique stores in 15 European countries.
In addition to selling branded apparel in boutiques, Hilfiger opened 34 company-owned
Hilfiger Denim stores throughout Europe. Designs and layouts of the stores and their merchandise are
tailored to the cultural tastes of the countries where they are located. Hilfiger has a higher margin on
products sold at its company-owned stores, as well as complete control over the facilities. The new
strategy has been a success. Today, European sales now account for 37% of Hilfiger’s $1.78 billion in
sales.
98. Refer to Tommy Hilfiger. You know that Tommy Hilfiger is a global business because it:
buys and sells goods and services to people from different countries
has more than 150 employees
is financed through stockholders
99. Refer to Tommy Hilfiger. When Tommy Hilfiger first sold its clothing globally, it made the mistake of
relying too heavily on_____, which means its business was being not designed for specific countries’
markets, cultures, and employees.