Essentials of Oceanography, 12e (Trujillo)
Chapter 8 Waves and Water Dynamics
8.1 Matching Questions
Match the term with the appropriate phrase. Not all answers will be used.
A) movement of air across the air–water interface
B) movement of different air masses along an air-air interface
C) the energy that causes ocean waves to form
D) movement of water of different densities along a water-water interface
1) internal wave
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Applying/Analyzing
Section: 8.1 How Are Waves Generated and How Do They Move?
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Applying/Analyzing
E) waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal and transverse waves
Section: 8.1 How Are Waves Generated and How Do They Move?
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Applying/Analyzing
Section: 8.1 How Are Waves Generated and How Do They Move?
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Applying/Analyzing
Section: 8.1 How Are Waves Generated and How Do They Move?
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Applying/Analyzing
Section: 8.1 How Are Waves Generated and How Do They Move?
Essent’l Concept: 8.1 Demonstrate an understanding of how waves are generated and how they
move
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Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
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8.2 Multiple Choice Questions
1) Most ocean waves form as a result of ________.
A) seismic events
B) winds blowing across the ocean surface
C) landslides
D) density differences between water layers
E) Earth’s rotation
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.1 How Are Waves Generated and How Do They Move?
Essent’l Concept: 8.1 Demonstrate an understanding of how waves are generated and how they
move
2) An internal wave might form ________.
A) at a density boundary within the ocean
B) at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean
C) at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor
D) close to shore as it moves into shallow water
E) only as a result of tidal activity
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.1 How Are Waves Generated and How Do They Move?
Essent’l Concept: 8.1 Demonstrate an understanding of how waves are generated and how they
move
3) Water waves are ________.
A) capillary waves
B) longitudinal waves
C) refracted waves
D) orbital waves
E) transverse waves
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
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4) The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the ________.
A) frequency
B) period
C) wave height
D) wavelength
E) wave steepness
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
5) The time between two successive waves is called the ________.
A) crest
B) frequency
C) height
D) period
E) trough
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
6) Wave celerity is equal to ________.
A) wave height divided by frequency
B) wave height divided by period
C) wavelength divided by fetch
D) wavelength divided by frequency
E) wavelength divided by period
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
7) The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to ________.
A) wave height/wavelength
B) wave height/wave period
C) wavelength/wave height
D) wavelength/2
E) wavelength/20
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
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8) The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to ________.
A) wave height
B) wave height/wavelength
C) wavelength
D) wavelength/wave period
E) wave period
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
9) A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least ________.
A) the fetch
B) wave height
C) wavelength
D) 1/2 of the wavelength
E) 1/20 of the wavelength
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
10) The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to ________.
A) water depth
B) wave frequency
C) wave height
D) wave speed or celerity
E) wavelength
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
11) The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to ________.
A) water depth
B) wave frequency
C) wave height
D) wave period
E) wavelength
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.2 What Characteristics Do Waves Posses?
Essent’l Concept: 8.2 Describe the characteristics of waves
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12) The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a
________.
A) capillary wave
B) seiche
C) tide
D) tsunami
E) wind waves
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Essent’l Concept: 8.3 Discuss how wind-generated waves develop
13) In general, the restoring force for most wind-generated waves is ________.
A) cohesion of water molecules
B) gravity
C) seismic activity
D) surface tension of water molecules
E) wind
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Essent’l Concept: 8.3 Discuss how wind-generated waves develop
14) The height of a wave depends upon ________.
A) fetch
B) fetch and wind speed
C) fetch, wind duration, and wind speed
D) wind duration
E) wind duration and wind speed
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Essent’l Concept: 8.3 Discuss how wind-generated waves develop
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15) The fetch refers to ________.
A) a method of shoreline erosion control
B) a type of wave-cut platform
C) the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes
D) the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level
E) the distance over which the wind blows without interruption
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Essent’l Concept: 8.3 Discuss how wind-generated waves develop
16) The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the ________.
A) equatorial doldrums
B) horse latitudes
C) polar regions
D) trade winds
E) westerlies
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Essent’l Concept: 8.3 Discuss how wind-generated waves develop
17) Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called
________.
A) capillary waves
B) constructive waves
C) surf
D) swell
E) wind waves
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Essent’l Concept: 8.3 Discuss how wind-generated waves develop
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18) Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces
________.
A) capillary waves
B) rouge waves
C) smaller waves
D) swells
E) tsunamis
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Essent’l Concept: 8.3 Discuss how wind-generated waves develop
19) Rogue waves tend to occur ________.
A) in areas where wind belts converge
B) in coastal areas with weak sea breezes
C) in upwelling zones
D) only in the southern ocean below 60°S latitude
E) where storm waves move against strong surface currents
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.3 How Do Wind-Generated Waves Develop?
Essent’l Concept: 8.3 Discuss how wind-generated waves develop
20) As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________.
A) decreases and its steepness decreases
B) decreases and its wavelength increases
C) increases and its frequency decreases
D) increases and its wavelength decreases
E) increases and its wavelength remains the same
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Applying/Analyzing
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
Essent’l Concept: 8.4 Explain how waves change in the surf zone
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21) Waves in the surf zone begin to behave like shallow-water waves when ________.
A) distance from shore < wavelength
B) steepness = 1:7
C) water depth = wave height
D) water depth = wavelength/20
E) wavelength < wave height
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
Essent’l Concept: 8.4 Explain how waves change in the surf zone
22) Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are
called ________.
A) gravity waves
B) plunging breakers
C) spilling breakers
D) surf
E) swells
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
Essent’l Concept: 8.4 Explain how waves change in the surf zone
23) If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?
A) Gravity waves
B) Plunging breakers
C) Spilling breakers
D) Surf
E) Swells
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
Essent’l Concept: 8.4 Explain how waves change in the surf zone
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24) Waves converge on headlands due to ________.
A) constructive interference
B) destructive interference
C) wave diffraction
D) wave reflection
E) wave refraction
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
Essent’l Concept: 8.4 Explain how waves change in the surf zone
25) Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation?
A) Sea, surf, swell
B) Sea, swell, surf
C) Surf, swell, sea
D) Surf, sea, swell
E) Swell, sea, surf
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
Essent’l Concept: 8.4 Explain how waves change in the surf zone
26) Standing waves may be caused by ________.
A) a storm surge
B) destructive interference
C) wave diffraction
D) wave reflection
E) wave refraction
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.4 How Do Waves Change in the Surf Zone?
Essent’l Concept: 8.4 Explain how waves change in the surf zone
27) A tsunami may result from ________.
A) a large deep-water wave
B) a storm surge
C) an intense storm
D) constructive wave interference
E) tectonic activity on the seafloor
Bloom’s Taxonomy: Remembering/Understanding
Section: 8.5 How Are Tsunami Created?
Essent’l Concept: 8.5 Describe the origin and characteristics of tsunami
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